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HANOI & SURROUNDINGS
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Hanoi - a mixture of discreet charm and excitement |
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A
tour in HANOI is to steep yourself in history, tradition,
and legend in a capital that has been inhabited continuously for
almost a millenium. Visitors often note that the city is
quieter, greener, and "cooler" than other big cities of Vietnam.
Indeed,
Hanoi itself, and the Northern Vietnam, have quite clear
four seasons, and October to March are lovely pretty cool months
whilst other towns southward just have dry and rainy times. It
probably influences in the mentality of the inhabitants and the
city seems attract more intellectuals and artists, while Saigon
is great for entrepreneurs and hustlers.
Hanoi's present architecture is mainly from the 19th
and 20th centuries, and the French-built section of
the town is largely intact. Yet, the city preserves many old
religious temples and shrines dedicated to the nation's heroes
or deities, who supported the farmers to cultivate and protect
the fertile land on the Red River right bank and gather the
first commercial guilds to form what later became an exciting
urban town.
Hanoi street life now is fascinating. In the early morning,
you can see people both young and old practicing "tai chi quan"
or martial arts in the parks and joggers along pretty lakes.
Outdoor barbers with mirrors simply hung on the street walls and
women selling great French baguettes and flowers are also at
every street corner. If you go for a walk, the motorbikes and
cyclos may make you wonder a bit which directions they move on,
but as soon as you get a chance to try one of them, you could
say they are not so risky like they seem to be, as the local
drivers have extremely special skills to avoid one another (!).
Thus a deliberate Cyclo tour for one or two hours is so far the
best way to visit the Old Quarter, 90% of which are narrow and
short streets.
During the two Indochinese Wars in 20th century,
Hanoi had been heavily damaged, but there is virtually no
evidence that now and the particularly thin, tall, often
awkward-looking buildings that you see on streets are not a
result of bombing, but are created by landowners who own only a
thin slice of land so build up rather than out.
Hanoi has a number of lovely parks and big Lakes which
inspire the ancient architects to build graceful temples nearby,
and Museums with precious exhibits of Vietnam's Fine Arts,
Ethnology, History and Recent Wars that attract not only
historians but foreign visitors and local people.
Finally, the Hanoians are reckoned the warmest and most
approachable in the country. Though English is not as commonly
spoken as in Saigon, most of the shopkeepers have learnt English
quite enough to discussion on the commodities and price, and
many of the older generation have a working vocabulary of
French. Regardless of language, people will attempt to chat with
you irrespective of whether you can understand them. Many of the
cyclo drivers speak some English and often have very interesting
pasts that they are now willing to discuss with foreigners. At
times in Hanoi, you could be sitting in a caf?sipping excellent
coffee that
Vietnam plant in the Central Highlands for domestic use and
export, eating great pastries that is a pleasant trace of the
French time, chatting in French to an old beret clad gentleman,
whilst as you look out the window you can see posh French-style
villas in the shadows of fig trees or malabar-almon trees. Then
you can really wonder just what country you really are in. In a
single word, Hanoi is a city to be savoured. |
See also |
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Hanoi & surroundings |
Halong & Catba island
The Northeast|
Sapa & the Northwest |
DMZ |
Hue |
Hoian |
Danang |
Dalat
Coastline |
Central Highlands |
Saigon & the Mekong Delta
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Bat Trang and
other cottage industry villages |
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Separated from the
Hanoi downtown by a bridge over the Red River and 15km dike
in between green rice paddies and old villages, Bat Trang is
worth a half-day visit not only for its wellknown cottage
industry but also for the poetic surroundings.
According to historical records, the villagers have featured
some kinds of excellent ceramic for domestic use and export
since 15th century. From time to time, the Vietnamese
overseas people and diplomatic corps have found their products ?
valuable antiques now - not only in neighbouring countries like
China, Korea, Cambodia but in far states including Egypt, France
and Portugal. The masters of Bat Trang now are not only
supplying a big deal of porcelain for Vietnam but receive
numerous orders from Japan, France and USA and are proceeding to
recover traditional samples that somewhat have been lost during
the war time. Stop-off at the village is an interesting mixture
between watching the real production of ceramics and walking
around for some light but fine and sophisticated porcelain. You
can find in a factory the workmen mixing clay or dipping burnt
vases into glaze to highlight their crackled lines, the painting
masters, usually young girls with dexterous hands drawing on raw
terracotta before they are heated at 900oC to 1,700oC
ovens, taking inspiring pictures of coal-dust bakes pasted on
the village's walls. Daily life of the village with a small
exciting market and the wharf at the Red River where the
products shipped are also very fascinating. You should go with a
local guide to discover the family factories behind the shops in
front, as it may not easy to communicate with the villagers who
speak no English.
If
Bat Trang say they are proud that about 1,000 households
live by traditional job, other cottage industry villages
surrounding Hanoi would be shy a bit. Dong Ky village ? 30km
northeast of Hanoi, has only hundreds of families specialized in
handmade wooden furniture with mother-of-pearl and marble inlay.
Whilst local people come here for ordering cupboards, tables and
wardrobes by their designs or in catalogues' styles, you would
be interested in wooden statues or sophisticated utensils made
of ebony, redwood, rosewood and pinewood. Another village 14 km
West of Hanoi called Van Phuc is famous for the traditional silk
and you can find here many families using motor looms weaving
silk or washing them after completed. Villagers from Le Mat, 08
km northeast of Hanoi, catch and breed snakes for foods and
wine. Serpents can be found hereabout in compounds around the
house, in readiness to export or to be dipped in snake wine or
traditional medicine. Different kinds of other snakes are to be
cooked and served to the people mainly coming from Hanoi,
especially men. In Hanoi old quarter sometimes you can also buy
medicines made from Le Mat snakes. Dong Ho village along the
Duong river in nearby Ha Bac province produces traditional
woodblock prints. In the old time, a picture printed that way is
a must to decorate a Vietnamese house in springtime of "Tet" ?
the Lunar New Year. Some families in the village now change to
make paper articles to burn at the Vietnam's ancestral
anniversaries to send "utensils" and "money" from the alive
people to their dearest dead relatives, with a hope that those
things will be assisting the dead souls to "survive" well in the
Hell. As the villagers' job is somewhat seasonal, a visit to
Dong Ho should be combined with a sightseeing to the large But
Thap pagoda nearby, which was restored in 17th
century with impressive antique statues and stone-carved
balconies and towers.
To the South of Hanoi there are a few interesting sights within
a day-tour. If you love a visit to see magnificent limestone
ranges edging a poetic river, come to the Perfume Pagoda or to
Tam Coc. The trip to Tam Coc is to combined with visits to Bich
Dong pagoda nearby and to the two temples which are remains of
an
ancient
city called Hoa Lu, all belong to Ninh Binh province.
Also in Ninh Binh you can visit
Cuc
Phuong, one of the few national parks in Vietnam. To the
North of Hanoi is
Tam Dao,
an old French hill station with beautiful landscape from a
height and to the West is a combination of several Buddhist
temples, of which Thay and Tay Phuong Pagoda are most sight
worthy. Please see details of them hereunder.
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See also |
|
Hanoi & surroundings |
Halong & Catba island
The Northeast|
Sapa & the Northwest |
DMZ |
Hue |
Hoian |
Danang |
Dalat
Coastline |
Central Highlands |
Saigon & the Mekong Delta
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